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eBay Gold French Sewing Chatelaine / clavier, decorative hook belt, with chains in Original Case with scissor and thimble 18K gold circa 1855 Napoleon III A beautiful old Napoleon III (circa 1855) 19th century French sewing set 18 K gold, Chatelaine (decorative belt hook) in its original fitted leather case (etui), complete with a pair of gold scissors suspended from the Chatelaine long gold chain and its original thimble from Marret et Jarry Frères French jewelers. Marret et Jarry were renowned jewelers in Paris, Second Empire, they won a top prize the “Medaille d’honneur” at the 1855 French Universal Exposition. The pair of gold and steel scissors features a beautiful embossed floral design with 3 colors of 18K gold, yellow, rose and lighter yellow. The blades are tight and sharp and cut all the way to the tip, sign that they may have never or rarely used. The gold thimble is adorned at the base with a scrolling leaf decoration in yellow gold. It seems to have been the only accessory that was utilized, it has one mark on the blazon below the owner initials. The Chatelaine chains are separated by a gold lozenge featuring a flower. The chains are in perfect condition. The ?clavier? has 4 French hallmarks: makers (maître orfèvre) hallmark “JM” surmounting a flower, “Bacchus head” (masque bachique) hallmark with numbers 1 and 2 on each side gold hallmark guarantee and sphinx hallmark with number 3. This particular sphinx hallmark was used from 1819 to 1838 and guarantees a minimum fineness or purity of at least 750/1000th gold equivalent to 18 K, but 750/1000th gold from that period in France is often purer than 18K nowadays gold as usually more gold than the exact 750/1000 proportion was added. The thimble has a gold hallmark at its base, but I can?t see the detail. Scissors and chain have several gold hallmarks as well (additional pictures available on request). Perfect condition, some traces of wear on the back of the leather covered box. Each piece is in excellent condition with little to no signs of wear, it seems the set has never or rarely been used except the thimble. Original fitted leather covered case stamped “Marret et Jarry Frères, joailliers bijoutiers, rue Vivienne, 16, Paris”. The case opens and closes with a smoothly running hinge and has a well-functioning lock that holds it close securely. Good condition, the back has some traces of wear and one of the two ribbons that maintains the case cover when opened is damaged. A sewing etui such as this one is rare and hard to come by especially one of its age that is in perfect condition, complete and in its original fitted case. Dimensions and weight: Leather covered fitted case 20cm x 9.5cm x 1.5cm / 7.9 inches x 3.8 inches x 0.6 inch Gold thimble Height 2.9cm x diameter 1.7cm ? weight 4.49 g Gold scissors Height 9.6cm / largest part 3.5cm ? weight appx. 10g Chain and rings 33 to 34g length 44cm Gold sewing set weights 61.16g, if subtracting the weight of the scissor steel part (about 4 to 5g), total weight of 18K gold would be approximately 57g. Jeweler details Founded by Hippolyte Marret (1804-1883) and his two brothers in law, Eugène Jarry (1818-1883) et Gustave Jarry (1821-?), Marret et Jarry Frères opened shop in Paris on October 11, 1851 designing, manufacturing and selling fine jewelry, gold and silverware. The firm only lasted seven years before being taken over by two nephews in 1858. In 1855 Marret et Jarry Frères won a top prize (médaille d’honneur) for their exquisite diamond parures and other jewels at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. Chatelaine history From the 16th century, women often wore a decorative clasp at the waist with a series of chains attached, called a chatelaine. The name chatelaine derives from the French term ”châtelaine” which means wife of the lord of a castle or a woman who owns a large house or is in control of it. Suspended from the chatelaine, were useful household accessories such as scissors, keys, and sewing tools. Crafted from precious metals, chatelaines were considered as jewelry and status symbols. I inherited this set from my French family years ago. I have to sell it and a few other antiques including gold chatelaines / claviers (with and without chain) as I will move to a smaller place, please check my other listings. Please e-mail with any questions. More pictures available on request.
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